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Typical gastronomy from the cities

17 septembre 2019 by SAISIE29

Each month we will suggest you some place to visit where you can find the finest food during your stay

This month we will talk about Paris, Roma, New York and Rio de Janeiro

PARIS

Beefbar Paris 

– a historic restaurant near the Champs Elysées

Typical gastronomy from the cities

It’s sleek, it’s got the historic Parisian pazzazz (a jaw-dropping Art Nouveau glass ceiling inherited from its 1898 FermetteMarboeuf restaurant days), and if you’re a meat fan, then it won’t let you down.In true Beefbar fashion (and those who have been to its outposts all over the world will know), it’s the right balance of flashy and laid-back, making it the perfect place for a relaxed business lunch or dinner date.

The food is casual, and peppered with influences from around the world. The starter menu ranges from Spanish hams to smoked Mexican tacos and Japanese Kobe beef gyozas, while the mains are very much steeped in French classics like juicy Chateaubriand and filet mignon.

There’s also steamed sea bream and free-range coquelet (cockerel) as well as creamy black truffle taglionini for diners who prefer to go beef-free.

Girafe 

– where dining comes with killer Eiffel Tower views

Typical gastronomy from the cities

If what you want out of your dining experience is good food and a view that will blow your mind, then welcome to Girafe.

Tucked in the left wing of the Trocadero, which arches around the Eiffel Tower, Girafe has one of the most sensational views of the the grande dame. Step out on the open-air terrace (open all year around), and you’ll be taken aback – no matter how many times you’ve been to Paris.

The 1930s interiors, recalling an outdoor patio with Art Deco undertones and 30s French glamour spirit, are by the talented Joseph Dirand, but as beautiful as the interiors are, diners come for the view.

Seafood is Girafe’s signature, with oysters plucked from the country’s best regions from Brittany to Oléron. You’ll also find Sologne caviar, lobster, urchins, crayfish, and even cockles, as well as sashimi, ceviche, and whole fish grilled or roasted. Meat lovers, rest assured, there’s also beef tenderloin and farm-raised chicken.

Lasserre 

– a landmark restaurant next to the Grand Palais museum

Typical gastronomy from the cities

A pillar of French gastronomy, Lasserre has tasked a young new chef with the challenge of steering this old ship back in the water. Nicolas le Tirrand, who’s trained with top three-Michelin-star chefs, has spruced up old classics by giving them the lightness that traditional French gastronomy often lacks, giving the menu a fresh new twist.

The interiors have also got a makeover. Lasserre’s yellow-gold dining room, with its rows of white orchids, crisp white tablecloths, channels summer drawing room chic – especially with its roof that still opens to reveal the starry skies.

Originally a casual bistro for travellers come to see the 1937 World Fair, Monsieur René Lasserre turned it into one of the city’s most successful restaurants who counted Salvador Dalí and Audrey Hepburn among its regulars.

When it comes to the menu, Le Tirrand has added lightness to heavy signature dishes, like Lasserre’s truffle macaroni. Don’t miss the heather-stewed grouse, and, of course, crêpes suzette dessert, where the thin delicate pancakes are rustled up in front of guests at their table for the full historic Lasserre treatment. 

Ducasse sur Seine 

– the best cruise on the River Seine with Eiffel Tower views

Typical gastronomy from the cities

Alain Ducasse holds no less than 20 stars for bis 30 restaurants across three continents. The only thing he was missing, really, was a cruise boat – until now.

Launched last fall, Ducasse sur Seine is a restaurant on an electric boat, gliding soundlessly along the River Seine through Paris and blockbuster monuments, from the Grand Palais to the Eiffel Tower.

Jean-Jacques, the Maître d’hôtel does a marvellous job at making diners feel right at home with a touch of humour here, and a warm smile there. With Monsieur Ducasse for years, he spent most of his career perched atop the Eiffel Tower when the chef helmed the Jules Verne restaurant, but he’s not far from the grande dame, which he now takes in from a different vantage point.

All courses, prepared by executive chef Francis Fauvel, are executed to perfection, from the chilled lobster to the cook-pot of spelt and purple artichokes, followed by mains of turbot shellfish ‘à la marinière’, and tender roasted free-range corn-fed chicken in herb butter. Dessert was a portion of delicate oven-baked figs with fig tree ice cream. A winner.

With the exceptional views enjoyed soundlessly, teamed with the food, the futuristic-looking steel and glass vessel’s smart interiors, this Paris river cruise is like no other in the city.

ROMA

Ego Bistrot

Typical gastronomy from the cities

Trastevere is better known for its classic trattorias than its fine dining options so Ego Bistrot is a welcome addition to the neighborhood. Set on the top floor of the 17th century ResidenzaDoriaPamphilj, the restaurant combines high-end cuisine with sweeping views of the city rooftops. The romantic terrace is perfect for dining al fresco and the menu has an ample selection of fresh seafood and shellfish. A bowl of cacio e pepe is kicked up a notch with red prawns, yuzu and mint, while spaghetti come tossed with monk fish, fennel, olives and grapefruit.

Imàgo

Typical gastronomy from the cities

Set within the storied Hotel Hassler at the top of the Spanish Steps, the Michelin-starred Imàgo was the first rooftop restaurant to open in the 1950s and pairs iconic views with high-end dining. Today, Imàgo remains one of the city’s most respected restaurants thanks to its innovative cuisine and old-world charm. Neapolitan-born chef Francesco Apreda draws inspiration from his time in London and Japan to create dishes that fuse Italian flavors with curry and umami elements. Try the capellini aglio, olio e peperoncino (olive oil, garlic and red chili pepper) with smoked eel. [UpdateFrancesco Apreda has since moved to head the kitchen of Idylio at The Pantheon Iconic Hotel while Rome-born chef Andrea Antonini has now taken over at Imàgo]

 Pianoalto

Typical gastronomy from the cities

The younger sister of the beloved Pianostrada, Pianoalto brings feminine flair and gourmet street food to southern Rome. Like its precursor, every detail here is curated – from the fresh flowers and linen napkins to flavor combinations that entice you to order a little bit of everything on the menu. From the focaccia appetizers, gourmet panini and fritti of all types, you’ll find a wide array of shareable plates alongside fresh pastas, burgers and seasonal entrées. Grab a seat on the rooftop garden and watch the sun set over Rome’s Gasometro for a different perspective of the city skyline.

Trattoria Pennestri

Typical gastronomy from the cities

Led by chef Tommaso Pennestri and sommelier Valeria Payero, Trattoria Pennestri is a convivial restaurant with an exciting menu that reinterprets Italian cuisine. The wine list is extensive, with a focus on natural labels, and the service is exceptional. The menu changes seasonally but look out for pici with broccoli rabe and bread crumbs and fettuccine with sausage, mint pesto and pecorino. Trattoria Pennestri also makes one of Rome’s best desserts: chocolate mousse served between crunchy layers of Sardinian flatbread drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with rosemary and sea salt.

NEW YORK

Le Bernardin 

– 151 West 51st Street 

Typical gastronomy from the cities

It is usually futile to declare any one restaurant the best in a city as diverse as New York, but if you totaled up every accolade—including four stars from the Times and three Michelin stars—given to Le Bernardin over 30 years, it would be laps beyond every other.There once was a Le Bernardin in Paris, but when Maguy Le Coze and her brother, the late chef Gilbert Le Coze, opened in New York in 1986, they closed the former to devote all their Gallic finesse to the latter. It’s one of the most beautiful dining rooms in the city, which the very chic, very Parisian Maguy keeps refreshed, as does her partner-chef Eric Ripert, who has maintained Le Bernardin’s devotion to impeccable seafood. Each dish is enhanced, yet never drowned in or overpowered by ingredients.

Aldo Sohm’s wine list doesn’t have a single bottle that does not complement the menu. Lunch is priced $90—which would cost twice that in Paris—and at dinner $160, with an amazing range of dishes to choose from, like seafood carpaccio (created by Gilbert on opening) to seared langoustines with foie gras croutons and morels. Everything from bread and rolls to end-of-the-evening chocolates are as delicious as any anywhere.

21 Club 

– 21 West 52nd Street

Typical gastronomy from the cities

No restaurant has a more raffish history than The 21 Club (which regulars call “the numbers”), dating back to the Prohibition era as a speakeasy, then as the postwar watering hole for everyone from Humphrey Bogart and Orson Welles to Marilyn Monroe and Lauren Bacall, and every president since Eisenhower. Movies like Sweet Smell of Success and Wall Street used scenes at 21 to immediately signal how much power the characters had in New York. With its main dining room hung with corporate toys and John McEnroe’s tennis racket, its ancient bar, its magnificent collection of graphic artwork and a secret wine vault behind a six-ton concrete door (ask for a peek), 21 has more stories than the Arabian Nights.Once an intimidating place for newcomers, the greeting has never been more egalitarian, the American food never better (including the famous “21 burger”) and the wine list has bottles going back to the Nixon era (his bottles are still down there).

It’s the building with two-dozen jockey statues arrayed along the terrace and shiny wrought iron doors beneath them.

Porter House Bar & Grill 

-10 Columbus Circle 

Typical gastronomy from the cities

New York has a slew of top-quality indigenous steakhouses, from the legendary Peter Luger in Brooklyn to the Palm and Smith &Wollensky. Needing to compete in such a high-end market, they all choose, age and serve the best USDA Prime to be found. But only Porter House has such a spectacular view of Columbus Circle and Central Park. Set in the Time Warner Center, Porter House is a swank, enjoyably sophisticated steakhouse where women feel just as well taken care of as men, and chef-managing partner Michael Lomonaco is always there to make sure every dish comes out perfectly cooked (just don’t ask for well-done). If you plan to stay at the luxurious Mandarin Oriental, see a show at Lincoln Center or plan to stroll the Central Park West area, make sure to book a table. The bar is very popular from 5:30 p.m. on, the cocktails generous and lunch is mostly business. At dinner, the spacious room with its leather banquettes is both handsome and softly contoured for maximum views of the panorama.Start off with jumbo lump crabcakes or a roasted marrow bone, then choose among the namesake porterhouse or New York strip or the great prime rib. They do serve wagyu beef, but who needs such excess when the USDA Prime on the menu is so magnificent.

The Modern 

– 9 West 53rd Street 

Typical gastronomy from the cities

No city has anything resembling the richness of holdings as the Museum of Modern Art, with its stunning Sculpture Garden beyond a glass wall. So any restaurant emplaced in this awe-inspiring institution had better fit impeccably into the character and style of the place. As does The Modern, as wonderful in sunlight as in starlight, right next to the Garden. The restaurant was designed by Bentel & Bentel (the same architects behind Le Bernardin).The food, by Chef Abram Bissell, in the main dining room is innovative and contemporary, the service faultlessly civil. Dinner is a six-course extravaganza at $188, with wine pairings $168 additional.

Adjacent is the more casual Bar Room, which is a happy choice for lunch or before or after a visit to the Museum. Wine director Courtney Wieland is one of the most respected in the business and stocks a list of daunting depth and breadth. If you dine at The Modern, you will know you have dined at the center of all that makes New York the world’s cultural capital

RIO DE JANEIRO

Lasai

Typical gastronomy from the cities

Opened in 2014 by chef Rafa Costa e Silva, who worked for years as Andoni Luis Aduriz’s right-hand man at Mugaritz in Spain, this is the best looking and most atmospheric of Rio’s high-end restaurants. Tasting menus start with snacks served at the rooftop bar with views of the Christ the Redeemer statue. Try to book at the kitchen counter, the best seats in the house.

Olympe

Typical gastronomy from the cities

Thomas Troisgros has been gradually assuming management of the family restaurant as his father, Claude, son of French culinary pioneer Pierre Troisgros, devotes more time to hosting TV cooking shows. His daring combinations include indigenous ingredients in dishes such as fresh heart of palm with corn ice-cream and açaí-crusted lamb with manioc (cassava) gnocchi.

Galeto Sat’s

Typical gastronomy from the cities

Cariocas are mad about grilled galetos, or young chickens, and they argue as passionately about who serves the best in town as they do about who plays the best football. Galeto Sat’s is a favourite, a hole-in-thewall diner where the shabby décor and cramped tables lend the air of just another drinking hole serving cheap food. It’s cheap, but the signature galeto is one of the city’s best dishes: crisp, golden skin and richly seasoned juicy flesh, with a side of egg farofa, a variation on the typical Brazilian dish of toasted manioc flour. Waiters are fast and knowledgeable, and the vast cachaça selection has won several prizes.

Da Roberta

Typical gastronomy from the cities

In an unlikely spot – a street lined with mechanic workshops – the grande dame of Rio’s food scene, Roberta Sudbrack, recently opened this sandwich shop in a trailer. Everything is made in its tiny kitchen in full view of diners, who eat while standing on the footpath or perched on a few stools. Sudbrack, the chef-owner of an eponymous fine-dining restaurant in the city, applies the same rigour in training staff across both establishments, and her obsession in sourcing high-quality ingredients from small producers translates into hot dogs and pastrami sandwiches of unmatched quality